Carpet Cleaning | Upholstery | Air Duct Cleaning | Water and Fire Damage | Spot Removal Tips
Carpet Cleaning [TOP]
How much does it cost to clean my carpets?
The cost for carpet cleaning is determined by the number of rooms, halls, and stairs in your home. If a room is a combination of the living room and dining room or over 300 sf. we count that as two rooms. (generally this is a Great Room or a Room over a double car garage). Our minimum charge for cleaning is $89.95. This will get you two rooms cleaned. Every additional room is $32.00. Hallways are $18.00, and staircases count as a room. We do provide for repeat customer discounts and we always have a special out there to suit you.
How long does it take to clean my carpets?
This depends on the number of areas you are having cleaned and the amount of furniture to move so it varies, however, the estimated time it takes is about 20 minutes per room.
Does Pro Clean move my furniture?
If you choose us to, Pro Clean will be glad to carefully move and return your furniture back to its original position. Pro Clean is one of the last companies that send two-man crews into your home. We do this so that we can carefully move your furniture, clean under it, and move it back to its original position. We do ask that you remove any breakable items off of any tables or items that you would like us to move. We will gladly move any furniture that two men can move safely.
Should I be concerned about steam cleaning my carpets?
No, you shouldn’t. If you have heard horror stories about Steam Cleaning our guess is that somebody in flannel shirt with a store rented machine over-wet and over-soaped your carpets. The carpets could have taken three days to dry and the spots just came right back….well, at Pro Clean, we use the latest techniques and equipment to insure that your carpets are nearly dry when we leave. Our truck-mounted cleaning equipment has a powerful vacuum that pulls nearly all of the hot water we use to clean right back out simultaneously. In fact, almost every major carpet manufacturer recommends truck-mounted hot water extraction cleaning (steam).
How long will my carpets be wet after cleaning?
Usually your carpets are damp anywhere from 2-8 hours. We do recommend that you leave the tabs under the furniture for 24 hours.
Can I walk on the carpets after they are cleaned?
It is best if you wait until the carpets are dry and if you can avoid tracking any dirt on the damp carpet, however, you can walk on the carpet with socks or house shoes without causing any harm. Be careful when moving from the damp carpet to linoleum, hardwood, or ceramic tile because it will be slippery.
Is it safe to steam clean berber carpet?
Yes, when we steam clean berber carpet we are able to pull more soil than when we dry clean. We use an acid rinse with our cleaning to insure that the carpets are left virtually chemical free.
What will Pro Clean do if a stain reappears after cleaning?
While most stains are removed and do not reappear after cleaning, there is the occasion when a stain that is deeply embedded into the padding or backing of the carpet can reappear. If this should happen to you, just call us back and we will come back out for free to take care of it.
How can I prepare for Pro Clean to come clean my carpets?
First, you can vacuum the day of or the day before our technicians arrive.
Second, please remove the breakables from the furniture you would like moved.
Third, please have any toys or clothes off of the floor
Fourth, point out to our technicians any concerns you have.
Fifth, Sit back and relax while we take care of the cleaning.
Upholstery [TOP]
How do you clean my sofa and my chair when they are different fabrics?
Our technicians are certified to clean any type of upholstery you may have. At the same time our trucks our equipped to dry clean, leather clean, steam clean, shampoo, or Haitian clean any piece of upholstery you may have.
How much does it cost?
Our prices are computed based on the lineal feet (LF) of the upholstered piece and the type of cleaning method we need to use. Generally, you can expect to pay $10.00 per lineal foot of upholstery. For specialty fabrics and situations, our pricing can be anywhere from $11.00 to $18.00 per lineal foot. If you would like to measure your sofa for a cleaning price, take a tape measure along the back of the sofa from arm to arm.
Does it matter what type of cleaning you do as to how clean it will be?
Yes it does. All of our methods will leave your upholstery clean. However, Steam Cleaning is the most aggressive and usually has the best results. Some materials may be damaged by using Hot Water so we must dry clean or shampoo to achieve the best possible clean. Rest assured that regardless of how we clean your upholstery, the result will be to the highest level possible.
Air Duct Cleaning [TOP]
Why should I have my air system cleaned?
Cleaning your air system insures that the air you breathe the most (in your home or business) is good and clean. Over time, the dust and debris build up in your air system lining, can cause your allergies to become accelerated, your system will have to work harder causing possible breakdowns in your system not to mention unneeded cost hikes in your energy bill. The contaminants in your system have the potential to affect your health. The removal of these contaminants should be considered as a major step in improving your indoor air quality.
How much does it cost to have my system cleaned?
Pro Clean charges $29.00 per vent line and each return line is $34.00 each. We do have a minimum charge for those of you with less than 9 vents and one return of $225.00. There are absolutely no hidden charges associated with this cleaning. Just take the number of vents and returns you have and multiply them by the number given above. You could also lower your bill by taking advantage of our seasonal special.
How long does it take to do the cleaning? Do I need to be home?
If you have 5-10 vents it usually takes about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. If you have 11-16 vents about 4 to 5 hours. More than 15 or 16 can take between 4 1/2 to 8 or more hours. Although we like you to be home, it is not necessary for our work to be accomplished if you need to take care of some other things. For businesses, we require an on-site inspection prior to quoting.
Why should I choose Pro Clean?
There are many reasons why our loyal customers feel Pro Clean is the best company to handle their air system cleaning. Yes, we work for Pro Clean so we are paid to say that… however, we do feel confident in that we employ the best technicians possible. And, we back our work with more than just words.
Pro Clean can provide you with a before and after video at your request (for an additional fee). We are a family-owned company and stand behind our work with much more than just words.
Our guarantee is made to the extent that if you are not satisfied with the service we provide, we will pay* to have the company of your choice re-clean it for you. Keep in mind that there are some great companies doing great work out there. If you decide you just don’t want to use Pro Clean, we will be glad to recommend another company who will provide with what we feel is a top quality service.
How often should I get my system cleaned?
We recommend every three to five years. This does depend on your own conditions and how important it is to you and your health to have the system completely clean.
Water and Fire Damage [TOP]
Are you insurance company approved?
Yes. Some insurance companies have a preferred list which Pro Clean may or may not be on, however, you can choose to have any company you would like provide these services for you. We work with any insurance company to restore your home to its pre-damaged condition.
How long does it take to get my house “back to normal”?
This completely depends on the type of damage and the severity of it. This is addressed at our initial visit.
When do I pay my deductible?
At the completion of our work.
Do you provide any service necessary to repair my home?
Yes we do, we hold a Class A Virginia Contractor License and have a team of contractors ready to get your house or business back to normal.
Is your work guaranteed?
Absolutely, we provide the same guarantee that your insurance company requires of its preferred contractors. Minimum one year on repairs.
* Pro Clean will pay the company of your choice to re-clean those areas you were not satisfied with up to the entire price you paid Pro Clean for the service.
Spot Removal Tips [TOP]
Removing spots from carpet can be simple or tedious depending upon the spot and how long it has been on the carpet. At times multiple applications of the spot removal solution, or a second solution is required. Listed below is a general spot removal procedure. If the origin of the spot is unknown, begin with step 1. If the origin of the spot is known begin at the appropriate step. Never use a circular motion to remove a spot as this destroys texture. To prevent wick up, the final step should always be to rinse with clear water, blot dry and put a thickness of several white paper towels over the damp area. Put a brick, or suitable weight object on the pad of towels to keep the pad in con- tact with the carpet. This allows any stain wicking up from the backing to go into the towels rather than remain on the carpet surface. Allow to dry, remove the brick and towels and brush up the pile.
Be certain to try, on an inconspicuous area of your carpet, any solutions you plan to use as it may affect color or texture. Do not use if color in the test area marks off on a white paper towel.
Some items to have available to remove spots:
- White paper towels or white terry towels.
- Hand dish washing detergent which does not contain lanolin or bleach. To make a detergent solution, mix 1/4 teaspoon of a hand dish washing detergent which does not contain lanolin or bleach with 1 qt. of water. (examples of safe detergents are Dawn* and Joy*). *Dawn and Joy are registered trademarks of Procter & Gamble
- Spray bottle for applying detergents and special solutions.
- Household ammonia solution which is 1 tablespoon of clear household ammonia to 1/2 cup of water.
- Isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
- 3% hydrogen peroxide.
- White vinegar solution made up of 1/3 cup of white vinegar, 2/3 cup of water.
- Approved carpet spotters available at carpet stores and other outlets.
- Spoon and dull knife.
- Brick or brick paver.
| To Remove | Use Steps | To Remove | Use Steps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asphalt | 1,3 | Make-up | 1,3 |
| Beer | B,3 | Mayonnaise | 1,3 |
| Berries | 2,3 | Milk | 1,3 |
| Blood | A,3 | Mixed Drinks | A,3 |
| Butter | 1,3 | Mud | F,3 |
| Calamine Lotion | 1,3 | Nail Polish | H,3 |
| Candle Wax | D | Oil | 1,3 |
| Candy | 3 | Paint, Latex | 1,3 |
| Catsup | A,3 | Paint, Oil | 1,3 |
| Cheese | A,3 | Perfume | B,3 |
| Chewing Gum | E | Playdoh | 1,3 |
| Children’s Drink Mix | 2 | Rubber Cement | 1,3 |
| Chocolate | A,3 | Rust | G,3 |
| Coffee | B,3 | Salad Oil | 1,3 |
| Cola | A,3 | Sauces | 1,3 |
| Cough Syrup | A,3 | Shoe Polish | 1,3 |
| Crayon | 1,3 | Shortening | 1,3 |
| Dirt | F,3 | Soft Drinks | A,3 |
| Egg | C,3 | Soot | I,1 |
| Excrement | C,3 | Soy Sauce | A,3 |
| Fruit Juice | 2,3 | Starch | A,3 |
| Furniture Polish | 1,3 | Tar | 1,3 |
| Graphite/Toner | I,1 | Tea | B,3 |
| Gravy | 1,3 | Toothpaste | A,3 |
| Grease | 1,3 | Urine | C,3 |
| Hand Lotion | 1,3 | Vaseline (R) | 1,3 |
| Household Cement | 3 | Vomit | C,3 |
| Ice Cream | 1,3 | Watercolor | A,3 |
| Ink | 1,3 | White Glue | A,3 |
| Lacquer | 1,3 | Wine | B,3 |
List of Steps
Step 1: Unknown and greasy spots.
Remove as much of the foreign material as possible by blotting with a white paper towel or scraping with a dull knife. Apply isopropyl rubbing alcohol to a clean white cloth, white paper towel or cotton ball. If the spot extends deep into the pile use a blotting motion until the spot is removed or no color is transferred to the cloth. Do not allow the alcohol to penetrate into the backing as this will destroy the latex bond. If the spot is on the surface only, rub in one direction at a time. Never use a circular motion to remove spot as this may destroy the texture. Stop if spot is removed. If not, go to step 3.
Step 2: Water based spots.
Blot up as much of the spill as is possible. A wet vacuum is useful if a large quantity of liquid was spilled. If spot has dried, saturate the tufts in the affected area with tap water (do not overwet). Allow to remain for about 1 minute and blot. If the spot is being removed using water, continue until the spot is completely removed. Blot dry and apply the paper towels and brick. If it is not completely removed go to step 3.
Step 3:
Remove as much of the foreign material as possible by blotting with a white paper towel or scraping with a dull knife. Apply a small quantity of detergent solution to the spot. Use a blotting motion to work the detergent into the affected area. If spot is being removed continue applying detergent and blotting with a white paper towel until spot is removed. Rinse with tap water using a spray bottle, blot to remove excess moisture, spray lightly with water, do not blot this time; apply pad of paper towels and brick and allow to dry. If there is still some stain on the carpet and blotting is not removing it, then moisten the tufts in the stained area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let stand for one (1) hour. Blot and repeat until carpet is stain free. Light will cause peroxide to change back to water so no rinsing is necessary. Apply pad of paper towels and weight down with brick.
A. Blood, catsup, cheese, chocolate, cough syrup, mixed drinks, soft drinks, soy sauce, starch, toothpaste, water color and white glue.
Blot with white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible then neutralize with an ammonia solution. Saturate spot using spray bottle. Do not wet backing. Blot with a white paper towel to remove excess moisture. After neutralizing begin with step 3 of general procedure. All solutions for removing blood must be cool.
B. Beer, coffee, perfume, tea and wine.
Blot with a white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible then neutralize with the white vinegar solution. Saturate spot, using a spray bottle and blot to remove excess moisture. After neutralizing go to step 3 of general procedure.
C. Egg, excrement, urine and vomit.
Remove as much of the stain as possible by using a spoon or dull knife. Blot up as much of the stain as possible, then neutralize by spraying the affected area with the ammonia solution. Care should be taken to remove all protein matter. Blot to remove excess moisture and go to step 3 of general procedure.
D. Candle wax or other types of wax.
Spread brown paper (such as grocery bag) or a terry cloth towel over the area and iron with the setting on “warm.” The wax will be absorbed into the paper or towel. Remove any traces with alcohol or dry cleaning fluid.
E. Chewing gum.
Freeze the gum using an ice cube. Shatter the frozen gum with a knife handle and vacuum. Some citrus based products such as De-Solv-It* by Orange-Sol have been demonstrated to break down the sticki- ness of gum so that it can be removed.
*De-Solv-It is a registered tredemark of Orange-Sol
F. Mud.
Allow mud to dry completely. Shatter the dried mud with the handle of a knife and vacuum. Go to step 3 of general procedure.
G. Rust.
Saturate spot with lemon juice, using a spray bottle, and allow to remain for 5 minutes. Go to step 3 of general procedure to remove lemon juice. If this does not work, and it may not, call a professional. Most rust removers contain a very strong acid and are, therefore, not recommended for use by homeowners.
H. Nail Polish.
Remove as much of the nail polish as possible using a spoon or dull knife. Apply a non oily nail polish remover to a clean white cloth and gently rub (in only one direction at a time) or blot the spot. Continue until spot is removed. Do not allow nail polish remover to get to the latex backing. Go to step 3 to remove nail polish remover.
I. Soot, graphite, copier material.
Vacuum using crevice tool of vacuum cleaner to remove the soot. If all, or most, of the soot has not been removed, call a professional cleaner. If vacuum- ing has removed all particles go to step 1 of gen- eral procedure to remove any traces.
Stains That Can’t Be Removed
Acid toilet bowl cleaners, acne medication, alkaline drain cleaners, chlorinated bleaches, hair dyes, iodine, insecticides, mustard with tumeric, plant fertilizers and stains of this nature cannot be removed as they have permanently altered the carpet’s color. Call a professional. Most likely the only solution is to insert carpet from a closet, or some other area into the area where the spot was cut out.
